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Scientists believe that the predecessor to the first land carnivores was most likely an animal called Miacis. Miacis lived about 55 million years ago and fossils show that the animal looked somewhat like a weasel.

The cat family split from other mammals about 40 million years ago, making them one of the oldest mammalian families. The best-known cats of pre-history were probably the saber-toothed cats (Smilodon) that lived during the late Pleistocene era (1.8 million to 10,000 years ago). Saber-toothed tigers, forerunners of the modern cat, were named for their sharp dagger-like canines. Able to kill full-grown elephants, these animals were plentiful in Europe, Asia, Africa and North America. Their small brain, large body and cumbersome teeth led to their extinction about 10,000 years ago.

Although the saber-toothed cat has no close living relatives, paleontologists reconstruct how Smilodon looked by comparing its bones with those of large cats living today. Often called a saber-tooth tiger, Smilodon was not actually related to the tiger, although it may have behaved a bit like one. Scientists have determined that the saber tooth's skeleton was not built for speed. Very powerful front legs and a short tail indicate that it probably ambushed its prey, goring it with those fearsome canine teeth and leaving the victim to bleed to death.

Wild cats are believed to have evolved in Africa, and due to continental drift, eventually arrived in South America. About 2 million years ago, when North America and South America joined together, the cat made it's migration northward.

Evolutionary biologists agree that the domestic cat is a cross between Felis sylvestris (European wildcat) and Felis lybica (African wildcat). Of all the cats in existence, the domestic cat is the only one that has agreed to live with humans. Due to this fact, the domestic cat has been given the name "Felis domestica."

Cats were first domesticated by the Egyptians around 3000 BC in order to control the rodent problem in their cities. Since the Egyptians stored grain in woven reed baskets, rodents were able to chew through these baskets and eat the grain. With no devices, poisons or traps to fight the increasing rodent population, rats and mice swarmed through the cities. During this period, a small yellow cat with black stripes (the predecessor of today's domestic cat) began coming into the cities in order to feast on the rodents. The Egyptians welcomed these visitors and encouraged them to stay. The Egyptians named their new domestic animal "mau."

After realizing that cats had helped them solve their rodent problem, the Egyptians began holding them in high regard. Not only did the cat gradually take up residence in Egyptian households, but came to be revered and worshiped as being godlike. Bast, the Egyptian goddess of fecundity and beauty was depicted with the head of a cat. This beautiful goddess was the symbol of light, heat and solar energy. It was believed that she controlled fertility, cured illnesses and took care of the dead souls. According to Egyptian history, cats were held in such high regard that their export was forbidden, and the penalty for killing a cat was immediate death.

Cats were mummified after death and buried in sanctified plots, often with supplies of mummified mice for the afterlife. In 1890, one such plot was found to contain the remains of 300,000 cat mummies. The mummies were wrapped in expensive colorful cloth and enclosed in engraved wooden cases. Many of these mummies were distributed to museums around the world.

Since they reproduced prolifically and lived long and healthy lives, the Egyptian cat population began to swell. For a long time, Egypt had held a strict rule that cats could not leave the country. Despite this rule, the Egyptians began selling cats to the Greeks. After several years of breeding, the Greeks started selling cats to the Romans, the Gaels, the Celts and later to the Europeans. Resulting from trade relationships between Asia and Europe, cats were being exchanged for silk. The Asians loved their cats and began breeding them right away. Several distinct breeds of cats were produced in Asia, such as the Siamese, the Balinese, and the Himalayan.

Previous to the introduction of the domestic cat, the only mouse hunters in ancient Europe were semi-domesticated weasels and skunks. The Romans, and to a certain extent, the Greeks, introduced the domestic cat to the rest of Europe. In European countries, the cat was not worshipped but kept as a companion as well as a rodent hunter. However, by the time the Black Death appeared in the 11th century, cats were once again held in high esteem for their rodent killing abilities.

The Middle Ages in Europe were the worst times for cats. Cats were believed to be agents of the devil, and thought to possess magical powers. Pope Gregory IX declared the cat to be a "diabolical creature" and authorized a total persecution. Persons who kept cats were suspected of being witches, and were put to death along with their feline companions. With rat extermination becoming urgently necessary, cats were beaten, killed and driven away from towns and villages.

In Tudor England, cats were burned as a sign of both Protestant and Catholic heresy. During the inquisition, the burning of heretics, Jews, witches and cats were just some of the atrocities that were committed. By the 15th century, the European cat was on the verge of extinction, thus allowing the population of rats to increase. For lack of cats, more than two thirds of Europe died from the Bubonic plague.

Eventually the witch-hunts ceased and cats once again became highly prized and beloved household pets.

Cats were first domesticated over 5000 years ago and have since become one of the most popular pets in the world. The first record of domestic cats in Great Britain dates back to 936 AD. By the mid 18th century, cats were fairly abundant in the United States. By the late 1800s distinctive breeds were being established and cat shows held, with the long-haired breeds being especially popular.

Although the North American continent had many varieties of wild cats, there had been no history of domestic cats preceding the arrival of the Europeans. The first domestic cats were imported in order to control the rodent population in the settlements. Eventually, cats became quite popular and the first American breed, the Maine Coon Cat, was established.

Domestic cats now live on every continent except Antarctica and have been bred into more than fifty distinct breeds.

The starting point for a healthy litter of puppies is a healthy, active bitch. It is important to have vaccination and de-worming programs updated before the bitch is mated. Heartworm prevention should be continued throughout her pregnancy.

About a month after the breeding, a veterinarian can conduct a pregnancy exam. False pregnancy, a physiological condition in which the bitch displays all the signs of pregnancy, except having puppies in her uterus, can fool owners and lead to undue anxiety.

Nutritionally, everything a bitch needs for the duration of pregnancy is in a good quality, balanced, commercial (not generic) dog food. Large doses of supplemental minerals or vitamins may only unbalance a balanced diet.

During the first six weeks of the pregnancy, it is recommended to feed the usual pre-pregnancy maintenance diet. The mother's caloric requirements don't increase dramatically until the last three weeks of pregnancy. During this time, the pups grow significantly in size and the nutritional requirements increase proportionately. This increase in food continues during the first three weeks after delivery, when she is producing the most milk. You should gradually increase her daily food over this six-week period from the maintenance quantity to three times that amount.

Set up a whelping area early so that the mother has time to become comfortable. A whelping box should be big enough for the bitch to stretch out and turn around, bedded with sheets or towels that can be easily cleaned, and located in a quiet, secluded, draft-free area.

The bitch's rectal temperature indicates when she is about to whelp. A dog's normal temperature is 101 or 102. In late pregnancy, it runs below normal, around 100. Within 24 hours before delivery, it drops to 97 or 98. Toward the end of the pregnancy, the dog's abdomen balloons out, her mammary glands enlarge and may drip milk, and she displays nesting behavior. However, the only sure sign of impending labor is the drop in rectal temperature. It is recommended to take the bitch's temperature twice a day (always at the same time each day) so as not to miss it.

Labor begins with contractions of the abdominal muscles and uterus. The amniotic sac protrudes, followed by a pup and placental membranes. Puppies are generally born in pairs, maybe 15 minutes apart, followed by a rest period that lasts up to an hour or, in large litters, even longer. The mother may take a break and walk around during this rest time.

Each pup is delivered enclosed in an amniotic sac that the mother breaks open. The mother then chews the umbilical cord and cleans the pup. The placenta is delivered with or right after each puppy. The bitch often eats the placenta, but it is not necessary for her to do so and can cause vomiting and diarrhea. The mother also licks the pups' bottom in order to stimulate urination and defecation. If the bitch does not do these things, you should get the pup out of the amniotic sac (so it can breath), tie off (one inch from the body) and cut the umbilical cord, dry the pup, disinfect the navel, and let the pup nurse. Use a warm wet hand towel to lightly stroke the pup's anal and genital areas in order to stimulate urination and defecation.

Any of the following conditions call for veterinary assistance in delivery:

• The rectal temperature drops and labor does not begin within 24 hours
• The temperature does not drop within a week after the due date
• Labor contractions continue for more than 30 minutes without producing a pup
• All the pups are not delivered within 24 to 36 hours of labor
• There is not a placenta delivered with each puppy.

Healthy puppies nurse right away and then every few hours. The pups must nurse from their mother within 12 hours of birth to receive colostrum (antibodies against disease). After 12 hours, their stomachs do not absorb antibodies. After this first 12 hours, if the mother does not have enough milk, or if her litter is too large, the pups' diet can be supplemented with commercial puppy milk replacement. Cow's milk is nutritionally inadequate for puppies.

Supplemental heat should only be used for orphan puppies if the room's temperature is too cold for the mother's comfort. A newborn pup can't generate body heat until it develops the shiver reflex; this occurs at about two and half weeks of age. Orphan pups need an environmental temperature of about 97 degrees the first week, in the mid 80s the second week, then in the 70s. If the mother is there to keep the pups warm, high temperatures are unnecessary and make her uncomfortable.

Good health can be monitored by weighing the pups every day. A healthy pup's weight increases daily. A sick pup does not gain weight but can lose weight. Weight loss is generally the first sign of illness. Good health can be maintained by disinfecting the pups' navels with half-strength tincture of iodine a couple times a day until it dries up and falls off. The most common cause of puppy death is infection via the belly button.

Within a day of delivery, the bitch should be taken to the veterinarian for an examination. The examination is to make sure that there are no remaining puppies and to make sure that all placental remnants are expelled from the uterus. Normal vaginal discharge can last for two to three weeks.

Good planning is the key to having healthy puppies. Most bitches whelp without a problem. However, when a problem occurs, time is very critical. Plan in advance with your veterinarian and discuss emergency and after-hours procedures.

With warmer weather approaching, plenty of pet owners are thinking of getting into shape before hitting the beach. But what about pets? Obesity is a growing problem among both cats and dogs. And much like humans, too many extra pounds can have far-reaching consequences for our animal companions. In this report from the Veterinary News Network, Dr. Jim Humphries discusses the health problems that can occur if your pet is overweight and shares tips on how you can get your pet's weight under control.

Small, feisty and energetic, terriers were originally bred to kill rodents and vermin. Most terrier breeds originated in the British Isles and were used to hunt fox, otter, badger and other rodents, often by digging into the ground to chase after them. The word terrier comes from the Latin "terra," meaning "earth." Some terriers were developed to fight in pit contests, against rats and, sometimes, other dogs.

Today, terriers are classified in three main groups: working, show, and toy. Working terriers are used to track quarry, especially underground. Show terriers are bred especially for the show ring or as small pets, while toy terriers are usually shown in the toy or companion group. The terrier group also includes Bull and Terrier types. Originally bred as a combination of bulldogs and terriers as pit dogs in the 1800s, they were later refined into separate breeds. It is worth noting that not all terriers are considered part of the terrier group, and not all dogs in the group are strictly terriers.

Terriers range from the small, like the Norfolk or Cairn terriers, to the large, like the Airedale. Most terriers have wiry coats that require special grooming, in order to maintain their characteristic appearance. Because they are intelligent and lively, terriers make engaging pets, but potential owners should be careful - terriers require lots of exercise, stimulation and attention, and owners should be just as lively as their dogs.

Breeds in the Terrier Group:

• Airedale Terrier
• American Staffordshire Terrier
• Australian Terrier
• Bedlington Terrier
• Border Terrier
• Bull Terrier
• Cairn Terrier
• Dandie Dinmont Terrier
• Fox Terrier (Smooth)
• Fox Terrier (Wire)
• Irish Terrier
• Jack Russell Terrier
• Kerry Blue Terrier
• Lakeland Terrier
• Manchester Terrier (Standard)
• Miniature Bull Terrier
• Miniature Schnauzer
• Norfolk Terrier
• Norwich Terrier
• Scottish Terrier
• Sealyham Terrier
• Skye Terrier
• Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier
• Staffordshire Bull Terrier
• Welsh Terrier
• West Highland White Terrier

Cats are curious creatures by nature and it's not uncommon for even the laid-back indoor cat to dart outside into the wild given half a chance. A missing cat is an ordeal that many cat owners eventually will face, no matter whether your cat is an indoor-outdoor cat who wandered off or an indoor-only cat who managed to escape outside.

A missing cat can be a stressful, emotional situation for any pet owner. But there are a number of simple steps you can take to help bring your feline friend home quickly and safely.

—Microchips And ID Tags: Pet identification is a must, even if your cat is an indoor-only pet. Microchipping your cat and outfitting him or her with a sturdy collar and ID tag go a long way toward helping your pet return home safely.

—Start In Your Back Yard: Begin your search in your yard. A door left open even for just a few minutes is an invitation for your outdoor cat to go exploring. Indoor cats that do make it outside tend to stay close to home - it's not uncommon for a scared cat to hide under a deck, inside bushes and shrubbery or under a car.

—Search Everywhere: Cats are well-known for getting into tiny spaces that might seem impossible to reach. Exposed pipes, car engines, inside walls - if a cat can fit into a space, chances are he or she will try to explore it. A thorough search of your home and yard is essential.

—Leave Food And Water Outside: If your pet is nearby, food, water, and items with a familiar scent (toys, blankets, etc.) might help lure him or her back home. Leave these items outside the door of your home.

—Post Flyers: Post bright, easy-to-read flyers, with a picture of your cat and your contact information, around your neighborhood. Distribute flyers to your neighbors and post them in local convenience stores, community spaces and other heavily-traveled spots. You may also consider offering a reward. For your safety, do not include your name, address or a specific reward amount (this will deter potential scam artists). The more flyers you post, the better. Don't forget, in order to post photos of your cat, you need to have them available. If you don't already have a few good, recent photos of your pets, take them today.

—Ask Around: Ask your neighbors to be on the look-out for your cat. Call your town's animal control officer and ask nearby veterinary clinics to keep an eye out for cats matching your feline companion's description. Check with local animal shelters and rescue groups. Remember: the more people that are looking for your cat, the better the chances he or she will be found.

—Advertise: Flyers aren't the only way to get the word out about your missing pet. Post an ad on community websites like Craigslist. Many local newspapers also offer free "lost and found" ads and your town's website may have a "lost pets" section.

—Missing Pets Websites: There are many websites devoted to reuniting pet owners with missing pets. Websites like Petfinder.com, the Missing Pet Network, and LostAndFound.com offer free classified listings for lost and found pets. The lost and found listings on these websites are easy to search and a great way to inform a large audience about your missing pet.

It is important to remember that cats are safer when they're indoor-only pets. It may seem unfair to confine your cat inside, but cats allowed to roam outside are at an increased risk of exposure to infectious diseases and injury or accident. This is all in addition to the possibility that your cat may wander off or, even worse, be abducted or stolen. Don't let your cat's curiosity get the better of him or her - keep your feline friend inside.